ISCHIA
We are Italophiles (and of course Francophiles) and, like all of our Euro-jetset brethren, adore the summer by the sea. Given the positioning of the Italian boot, kicking itself out between the confines of the Tyrrhenean, Adriatic, and Ionian Seas, Italy has a plethora of seaside summer getaways to offer us. After having been enraptured by the idyllic charm of Capri where we spent our first anniversary trip, and after we experienced the wild splendor of the Aeolian Islands, we wanted to relive that natural island beauty, at Capri’s effortlessly chic but equally idyllic neighbor.
The island of Ischia, only 20 miles from the shores of Capri, has been a favored getaway by Europeans for generations, who first flocked to the island to relish in its natural hot springs that bubble up across the landscape. Without many of the Gucci-glad crowds that invade Capri during the summer high season, Ischia offers an equally stunning landscape and coastal charm.
SUGGESTED ITINERARY: For this trip, we combined four nights in Pantelleria with four Nights in Ischia. We started in Pantelleria, and then flew from there to Naples, where we took the ferry from Naples port to Ischia port. From there, a taxi can take you directly to Mezzatorre.
Above and below right: the tiny hamlet of Sant’Angelo, on the southern shores of Ischia. Below left: the pool and casual restaurant at Mezzatore
STAY: Recently acquired by Il Pellicano group and renovated to the standards of its Tuscan sibling, the Mezzatore occupies a prime spot on the northwest coast of the island, its16th-century watchtower standing as a beacon over the serene cove that insulates its guests from the bustling towns of Forio and Lacco Ameno. Built among a wooded pine forest and above its own natural hot springs, the hotel is a chic seaside retreat with the benefits of a natural thermal spa circuit. Guests can while away their days on lounge chairs built into the stone cliffs, swimming in the cove’s natural pool, or hiding in any of the secluded spots scattered throughout the property. But you will always make it back to the upper terrace by sunset for a Negroni or an Aperol Spritz overlooking the Gulf of Naples.
ACTIVITIES: As hard as it is is to drag oneself away from the luxurious splendor of Mezzatore, we love venturing out of a resort or hotel to appreciate the place we traveled so far to visit; otherwise you could be anywhere!
First stop: Ask the hotel to call you a taxi to take you to Monte Epomeo for a short hike. It’s not overly strenuous, not too crowded, and the panoramic views from the summit (pictured right) are well worth the effort. There is even a little enoteca at the top if you’re feeling peckish or thirsty after the walk. Ask the driver to meet you back at the starting point at a certain time and then take you to the quaint southern hamlet of Sant’Angelo. Browse a few shops, stroll along the long, narrow beaches that line the village’s shores leading down to the Punta Sant’Angelo peninsula, and definitely stop for a lunch of lobster pasta and a seaside view at Casa Celestino (bottom right).
There are other activities that can be done on the island, like exploring hot springs or other public beaches, but we sort of felt that the island was large, the taxis were expensive to get everywhere, and the hotel was so fab that we were saying to ourselves “why would we ever leave this place?”
Grab a spot in the early am at the hotel’s pool or sea deck, or make a little “arrangement” with the pool boy to set up your spot for you so you don’t have to wake up early after a night indulging in Negronis. Spend the morning relaxing or taking swims across the hotel’s pristine swimming cove. Lunch should be taken at the hotel’s beach restaurant and the afternoon should be spent with more swimming, paddle boarding, spa-ing, or indulging in the hotel’s private hot springs circuit.
FOOD: The Castello Aragonese is the pride of the island and its must-see sight. Dating back to almost 500BC, the castle sits on a little island on the northeast coast, connected to the mainland by a narrow isthmus. As striking as it is by day, it is even more beautiful when viewed by boat as you water-taxi over from the shore to Giardino Eden restaurant, which sits at the water’s edge with views of the castle reflecting off the water in front.
If it’s sunset views you’re after, enjoy an early dinner at Umberto a Mare and then stroll the streets along the Corso Matteo Verde in Forio for the night scene.
And if you’re looking to go out with a bang, save your last night for Michelin-starred Indaco, at the Regina Isabella in Lacco Ameno.
We also enjoyed a night at Saturnino, which came highly recommended and offers a modern take on traditional Ischian cuisine.
PACKING INSPIRATION: Think Italian Riviera, The Talented Mr. Ripley, toned-down Capri style.
WHAT TO PACK: You’re on the sea…in Italy…in summer. It’s beach causal during the day and elevated seaside casual at night. For the day, pack your tailored bathing suits, camp collar shirts in lightweight fabrics, and linen short- or long-sleeve button ups. For evening, you’ll want white and cream pants with great knit Banlon polo shirts, or more linen and camp collar shirts.
FOOTWEAR: For this trip you’ll need:
Slip-on espadrilles or elevated flip-flops to wear to the decadent hotel breakfast and to the pool/beach.
Workout or comfortable walking shoes in case you do the hike or plan to work out.
On a summer beach trip like this, I pack one or two shoes for the evening like a slide or versatile sneaker.
SHOP SAM’S LOOKS
day look
evening LOOK
SHOES
BUON VIAGGIO!