MENDOZA
When the frigid winter of the Northern Hemisphere starts taking its toll on you, a jaunt down below the Equator is the perfect fix. Last Christmas, we gave you our heart, Argentina. Once in a while Glenn is itching for a destination and I just go along for the ride, not knowing what to expect, but eventually being blown away by the location. This was one of those trips. We had both already extended our arms outside the Casa Rosada and stumbled through the shady streets of Palermo several times, so we ditched Buenos Aires and headed for the hills. And what better way is there to spend the holidays than an intersection of jaw-dropping natural scenery, incredible hikes and, of course, fantastic wine. We followed the peaks of the Andes throughout northwestern Argentina, from the architecturally forward Uco Valley outside of Mendoza to the northern province of Salta and its breathtaking Cafayate, sampling countless varietals of malbec and torrontés along the way.
SUGGESTED ITINERARY: Pairing Mendoza and Salta was a great way to experience these complementary mountainous wine regions - so similar yet so different. Salta is quite a pain to get to as far as flights go, as most flights depart from the domestic airport in Buenos Aires and require a change of airport when flying into EZE. So we figured it out: Non-stop from JFK to Santiago, with a quick change of plane and a 45-minute connecting flight to Mendoza. We spent a week around Mendoza: the first half out in the Uco Valley and the second half closer to the city in Luján de Cuyo, two amazing spots with very different highlights. Then a quick non-stop flight between Mendoza and Salta, for part two of the trip in Cafayate. Aerolíneas Argentinas then has a non-stop flight from Salta directly into BA’s international airport, to provide a smooth connection back to JFK.
**Be careful planning around Christmas and New Years: many of the vineyards close on the holidays, making planning more challenging.
STAY: Our first stop was truly special. About an hour and a half outside the city of Mendoza, in the heart of the Valle de Uco, we spent the first four nights at Casa de Uco (below), an architectural beauty whose concrete structures mirror the cement vats that are used throughout the valley’s bodegas to ferment and store the region’s wine (for those of you like me who don’t like the taste of oak, you’re in luck). Positioned in a bucolic spot among its own working vineyards, the hotel provided the understated luxury that you would expect from a 16-room vineyard hotel. We used the hotel as a base for our winery tours and hikes throughout the region, but also spent our time at the hotel to appreciate the wine classes, horse riding, biking through the vineyards, and poolside relaxation after a tough day of wine tasting.
The other standout stay in the Valle de Uco is The Vines, a new and more resort-like property that seemed to cater more to the luxury American resort traveler. We stopped here for lunch one day and the grounds were amazingly manicured and landscaped, and the service was impeccable - as one would expect from a Four Seasons-type property.
Stop two was closer to Mendoza, at another architectural standout, Entre Cielos (below). Another wine resort in the shadows of the Andes, the hotel has one main building but offers very special “Vineyard Lofts” scattered throughout the vineyards. We stayed in one of these memorable suites, with a private porch looking out over the vineyards to the Andes, where we spent several memorable sunsets…with a bottle of malbec, of course. While we wouldn’t recommend staying in Mendoza itself (who wants a city stay when you can live on a vineyard?), it was great to be closer to the city for a few days to be able to experience some of its sights and cuisine. This hotel was the perfect way to do that, and the area of Luján de Cuyo offers a fine selection of bodegas to visit.
EAT:
Bodega La Azul: Upon landing from a very long overnight flight, I usually want to get to my destination and chill at the hotel for a bit to get my bearings (and a nap). Glenn had already planned a lunch reservation at Bodega La Azul. When he asked me if I wanted to keep the reservation or just head to the hotel he was shocked that I went with the flow and actually took the reservation. While going straight to lunch from the airport may be out of the ordinary for me, I was so glad that we did, because the Bodega’s wine pairing and tasting menu turned out to be an incredible intro to the region, and more importantly, their Malbec became my favorite of the whole valley and had me ordering it wherever we went.
Siete Fuegos: On the same day we had the DiamAndes wine tasting (described below), we had lunch at The Francis Mallmann restaurant Siete Fuegos, at the Vines Hotel. It is not to be missed. It’s difficult to get a reservation but worth the effort. The food and atmosphere around the pool of the hotel are special, with views of the Andes and an eclectic menu.
Tupungato Divino: Wine tasting at Super Uco and then lunch at this lovely, quaint restaurant on a stream with a set menu of local delicacies and a great selection of the area’s wines (if you can handle more wine after the tasting).
Piedra Infinita: This restaurant (below) at the Bodega Zuccardi provides one of the most amazing lunches, in one of the most spectacular settings, in the region. The architecture of the space and the view of the Andes in the background are gorgeous, and their meat is out of the world (note: I don’t even eat meat). They offer a tour of their bodega, which is not to be missed, before or after lunch.
ACTIVITIES: On this trip we felt almost like we were drowning in wine (although no complaints there). The area is special because it was developed relatively recently so the architecture of the vineyards is just as dramatic as the setting itself. What’s great about the the Uco Valley is that there is so much to explore in addition to wine tasting and bodega (aka vineyard) hopping. Some of our favorite bodegas to visit and taste at were:
Valle De Uco
Bodega Zuccardi (below) was a highlight of the entire trip. This vineyard has some of the most beautiful architecture of any vineyard we have seen…and we have wine-tasted in Tuscany, Napa, South Africa, Provence, and Argentina. You can reserve a tour of the vineyard and then have lunch overlooking the Andes at their gorgeous restaurant, Piedra Infinita, while pairing Zuccardi wines with each course. It makes for a great half day.
DiamAndes Vineyard: This beautiful vineyard (below) is located on a property called Clos de los Siete, which features seven prestigious vineyards. You can tour the terroir and do a tasting on the grounds.
Super Uco (below and right) is a more casual family-run bodega located inside the Vines property and makes for a perfect stop before having lunch at the Francis Mallmann restaurant Siete Fuegos (described above).
In addition to tasting and bodega hopping, we had horseback riding through vineyards or the mountains, biking, and hiking all on the menu for the day. We usually would do the adventurous activities after lunch when it gets a little cooler. The sun sets really late in their summer months so there is no rush to finish early.
Luján De Cuyo
Matervini (below) is a vineyard with spectacular wines. We are the types that love to taste on vacation but rarely buy abroad because we are lucky enough to live in a city with great wine shops. This vineyard, however (which sells abroad only through their own wine club, direct-to-consumer), tempted us to bring home their special wines, and we did just that. We visited the vineyard just before lunch and then drove over to Casarena for lunch and their tour.
Casarena (below) has an unbelievable restaurant with a tasting menu and views over their stunning vineyard.
PACKING INSPIRATION: Below are two mood boards:
First, we provide inspiration for your adventure portion of the trip, which includes biking and horseback riding through vineyards.
Second, for the wine tasting portion of the trip, where you’ll want to be stylish and comfortable to coordinate with the modern architecture, yet deal with the heat.
DON’T FORGET TO PACK: As you can tell from the mood boards, this trip is tricky because there are several different types of activities you’ll want to enjoy during the day. Whether you are hiking or wine tasting, you’ll want a variety of clothing options. Therefore, you should pack one set of clothes like shorts, tees and polos for the parts of the days that you’re visiting chic wine vineyards for tastings followed by gorgeous lunches in the vines. For the parts of the day that you’re horseback riding, hiking, or biking, you’ll want to pack more neutral apparel that blends with the environment. That’s why I’ll always pack green or brown clothes so that the dust and dirt don’t show, and these garments can be worn again since laundry isn’t always an option. Then for the evening, it’s typical resort casual for dinners at the hotel or out at the trendiest Francis Mallmann restaurant 1884.
FOOTWEAR: For this trip you’ll need:
A comfortable sneaker for walking, biking, horseback riding and/or working out.
A versatile causal shoe that you can use for daytime visits to chic wine vineyards and delicious lunches in the vines but can also pair with an evening outfit for dinners.
A sandal for lounging around the pool.
Optional hiking boot.
SHOP SAM’S LOOKS